5 ------- AN3-29A -------- Bolts

2 ------- AN3-32A -------- Bolts

2 ------- AN4-26A -------- Bolts

4 ------- AN960-416 ----- Washers

2 ------- AN365-428 ----- Nylon lock nuts

7 ------- AN3-26A -------- Bolts

14 ------ AN960-316 ----- Washers

7 ------- AN365-1032 ---- Nylon lock nuts

2 ------- AN4-14A -------- Bolts

4 ------- AN960-????? ---- Washers

2 ------- AN365-???? ----- Nylon lock nuts

1 ---- 3" x 3" x .062" -- 6061-T6 -- Aluminum angle  "Console"

1 ---- 2" x 2" x .062" -- 6061-T6 -- Aluminum angle  "Console"

1 ---- 2" x 1" x .125" x 36" -- 6061-T6 -- Aluminum square tubing " Instrument pod"

TOOLS REQUIRED  :   Soldering gun, Wire cutters, wire strippers, Crimping tool, PVC cutters and Heating torch.

         Picture #1

Picture #2    

                         Getting started on the wiring.  I have decided to run my wires in Electrical PVC pipe, this way every thing will be enclosed and look neat also. I have already painted some of the part I will be using.  So I am going to run the PVC from the back top of the seat tank to where the instrument pod will be  mounted to the front of the aircraft. This way the wire will be out of sight also.

Picture #3

                  I stopped by radio shack and picked up 2 sets of these both male and female 12 pin connectors after I started installing the pins to the I found out I was not to thrilled with them at all the two parts did not make a solid connection,  I have been working with some different ones that are on the golf carts.  I think I will use my connections to see about getting some of the pins for them.  Much better plugs

Picture #4

                 I am going to need to turn my AC voltage into DC voltage and to do this I will need a "Voltage regulator"  I heard good things about the Key West Picture #4 it is small and easy to hook up. 

PRE-ROTATOR ( Slow start )  :

DELTA CAD DRAWING  :   For the Elect. Slow Start

"Picture #5"  is parts bought from "NAPA" Well I bought the parts and the 12V Heavy Duty solenoid is not worth the money you pay for it.  I can see that vibration is going to break or crack the bracket.  So I like the looks of the cheaper on so I bought the old ford looking one (SILVER) works great.  Also 2 momentary on off on switched you are going to need to make the circuit work right.

RESISTER COIL

"Picture #6"  You will need to make a resistor or coil for the system to bleed off some voltage through when it is trying to slow start the system and this is what the coil will do.  First off you need a 1/8 or #9 stainless steel rod, you will have to heat it as you bend it to the shape you want.  I found out that if you make the coil smaller it tends to break faster than if you leave it in big coils "Picture #6"  I broke 2 from vibration.  Where you mount the solenoid is up to you.  "Picture # 10"   but remember "distance means weight" from the wire you have to run welding lead it's not light.

         Picture #5                                        Picture #6                                               Picture #7                                               

                   Start with the welding leads

Ok lets get started with the Pre-rotator system Let run the big welding lead wire first.  This is the one that will be carrying the most current.  I cut the end of the wire off and piece of shrink wrap tape over the wire about 6" down for right now.    

                                                                                                                                                                           Picture #9                              

Then trimmed 3/4" off the wire to slip the wire terminal over it and used a crimping tool to place the terminal end on securely.  after I did this I slide the shrink wrap tape back up into place and heated it until it was tightly in place. As see in "Picture #9"

                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Picture #8 

SLOW START  SIDE OF THE CIRCUIT

Now that I have done that I am going to connect this end to the starter motor as shown in "Picture #8" from here I am going to go down to the 12V HD solenoid and connect it to one side of the big copper lug where the coil is mounted as shown in "Picture 6 & 7 " or the wiring diagram to the left.   Now I stripped the wire as I did at the top and placed the heat shrink wrap and the crimp lug one then with the small torch I heated the shrink wrap around the lug. "Picture #9".  Now to connect the other side to the power source and the other copper lug on the solenoid, I repeated the same thing I had just done.  I will come back and tie everything down when I finish wiring. 

THE GROUND WIRE

I used a #10 Gauge black wire to run my ground through.  Since I have a split mast and I have painted the aluminum I don't trust just hooking up a wire for a ground.  I am going to make sure it has one.  I will strip off 1/2" of the insulation and slide a crimp type 3/8" terminal and catch a ground spot at the top of the starter where it bolts down and from there go to the Neg. side of the battery to make the ground complete. 

FAST START SWITCH

Ok now for the other side of the system the "fast start" more or less the 12Volts bypasses the solenoid and is diverted to the starter through the solenoid plunger.  closing and making a new circuit for power to run through.  I started at the top again on the starter solenoid the spade terminal on starter, I put a Red #12 wire here and ran it down the mast to the console where I have 2 momentary on off on switches. 

One is fast and the other is slow,  I am going to connect the red #12 wire here to the

" FAST " with some extra wire for now.  Also I can split the wire here and connect it to both sides of the "ON " if you want to but I am only going to use the bottom side.  The reason for this is I will be pulling the switch down from where I am sitting in the seat. 

SLOW START SWITCH

 Now I ran a Red #12 wire from the small terminal of the solenoid to the switch marked " SLOW" and again I could use both sides of the "ON" on the switch but I will only use the bottom.  OK with that done I used a White #12 wire to connect to the "OFF" or center connections on both switches and ran the wire back to the POS. on the 12 V. Battery.   Now once you have completed this part make sure the circuit is working right. 

NOTES :  To start in slow I pull the "SLOW" switch down first and you will hear an CLICK when the solenoid activates, hold it for one revolution of the blades then use the other toggle switch "FAST" to continue the blade run up to the max rpm.  Note: YOUR MUST hold both switches down at the same time to get a fast rotation.  

Now I am going to have to build a battery box for the battery to go into.  "Picture #16C "

If you solenoid that you bought has 2 small terminals you can run a wire from the one that you are not using and use this a ground.  If not just leave it empty but tighten the nut and leave it on it come in handy later. 

Now I'm done with that.  It took me a week to get this together I had help on the rotor forum though.  Great place to get help if you run into a snag.  

          Picture #10                                     Picture #11

ENGINE WIRES     :

Ok I guess the best place to start is from the engine area first, what wire is for what.  Looking around I found lots of sources for what wires were what.....BUT I found out that the Yellow and yellow / black wire can get mixed up easy. I found out because when I ran my motor up for the first time I could not shut it down.  I had to pull the plug wire off the spark plugs.  Not a good place to be that close to the prop.  So take care when you hook them up. 

The charging wires are on the ( White ) plug in

             Picture #12

" Check it with a multimeter before cranking the engine up!  "

The engine wires that are in the ( Clear ) plastic plug in there are 4 wires in this connection

              Picture #13

BROWN wire is to ground, so I am going to run a split ground off the other end of the connection.  This way I have a ground going to the engine block and other one to the aluminum frame of the aircraft or battery neg.  

GRAY wire is for the engine rpm gauge that I didn't think I was going to use at the time of the picture but I ended up using one with a Hobbs meter on it as well.

           Picture #14

HEAVY YELLOW / BLACK wire and the YELLOW wire both will be going to the side console for the engine kill switch.  All of the wires will run down in to the PVC as you see.  I have made up a wiring diagram to help keep every thing straight later on.

SIDE CONSOLE  :

You know there is no were to look as to how to make a side console on your aircraft.  I ask questions and search looking at pictures of other peoples console.  So I came up with mine, I think it is a little over kill on the materials I used.  But for the time being I am going to use this.  

         Picture #15

I didn't like the wire hanging all over the place of wrapped with tape so I ran them in a PVC elect. conduct.

           Picture #16                             Picture #16C

I turned around and ordered the Westach  gauges cheap but works good and a little light also.

Hooking up the EGT  probes and the CHT sensors :

            Picture #17                                                                                                      

The first set of gauges I bought were the "MGL" I found out that the gauges were not water proof so I called the company and sent them back.  Well I had to eat the cost of the CHT probe and EGT sensors since I used them.  The MGL CHT sensors had brass ends to them so when you started to get the spark plug tight the ring would twist off. 

I found the Westach CHT to be a lot better built.  It CHT sensors didn't have any problem when I tighten them up

           Picture #18                                   

The EGT probes went in easy also not problems. 

            Picture #19

 This is one of the MGL CHT that I was trying to install

           Picture #20

  Finished installing the Westach CHT sensors

           Picture #21

  I placed them neatly so that the wires would not rub anywhere.

INSTRUMENTS MARKINGS  :

Marking the gauges to the proper min and max rangers will take some research.  Look in the Rotax hand book for all the info you need.

CHT   Temp.    MIN    300

                        MAX    400

EGT  Temp      MIN    1000
                        MAX   1100

RPM       Idle  MIN.  2,000 Don't let it chatter it is bad on the gear box!  Also Don't do quick rev.....

           Cruise MAX  5,300

        Take off MAX  6,500

1.   I like to set my cruising speed RPM around 4,700 to 5,300 if you don't need the power why waste the fuel.

2.  The more pitch it the prop the more stain on the motor.  So if you need speed fast you need less pitch in the prop. 8 degrees

      But If you not worried about speed and need more torque then add more pitch to the prop. 10 degrees

      You can tell the different between the two settings on CHT and EGT reading also.  just be aware .

Remember the only thing that is your governor is the prop on that gear box.

INSTRUMENT POD    :

                                    The metal used to build the pod holder is 2" x 1"---6061-T6 Aluminum square tubing.   I thought about putting a pod on the bird so I could tell what was going on.  I didn't like the fact that I would not be able to tell how high I was or how fast I was going.  So I did so looking around.   L.E.A.F had the pod in their catalog for $ 175.00

          Picture #22                      Picture #23                  Picture #24

Completed 10-14-2009